From Maple Syrup to Copaibo Oil

Socrates made the observation that we don’t know what we don’t know.  I’m paraphrasing.  In our western culture, we reward ingenuity and encourage creativity that reaches beyond the arts, to business, by using phrases like “think outside the box”, to help spark the imagination.  But, when dealing with traditional cultures where outside influences usually come in the form of undermining long held values and beliefs, and where scepticism follows hollow promises and false starts, the notion of fixing that which isn’t broken, takes a great deal more convincing than the use of a cute phrase.  A leap of faith is never easy.

Eighteen years ago, I spent four months working for the Ministry of Natural Resources, along the James and Hudson Bay coastlines.  I was stationed in Moosonee and in the middle of the Moose River is Moose Factory, a First Nations Reserve.  As you might imagine, life along the Moose River doesn’t change much from year to year, or certainly it didn’t at the time.  Access to the outside world, was either by rail to Cochrane or by air, which was very expensive, to Timmins.  During the summer months, shipments of large bulky supplies would arrive by boat, otherwise a trip to the grocery store, meant a two day trip on the Polar Bear Express to Cochrane and back.

When I arrived in Moosonee, in early May, the ice was still on the river and I discovered that old habits die hard.  It had long been common practice to take refuse on to the ice, in the middle of the river, throughout the winter, and wait for the ice break-up in the spring to carry away the accumulated debris.  To my horror, what had once been a practice that would have been reasonable, when all refuse consisted of organic matter, was still being practised with old cars, appliances and other bulky items.

In La Chiquitania, one long held practice was to harvest oil from the Copaibo Tree.  However, to do so involved hacking a huge notch in to the side of the tree, which pretty well reached the heart wood.  The oil would seep out and the tree would eventually succumb to the injury.  For what might seem like obvious reasons to us, the practice of collecting the oil and selling the product at market, was the furthest thing from the minds of the local people.

Then one day, along came an ingenious volunteer from CUSO, who suggested a less invasive method to collect the oil.  Drawing on his experience, Ulysse suggested a method by which a small hole could be drilled into the tree, a tube inserted and the sap collected.  Sound familiar?

Now, I don’t have to strike my finger with a hammer to know it’ll hurt, but unless someone shows me a better way, I may just abandon the whole notion of using a hammer all together.  When first suggested, the local people were sceptical about the practicality and even the motivation for harvesting the Copaibo Oil but after methodically testing various depths of hole, best placement on the tree and diameter of tubing to use, together, they found the optimum technique and they were off to the races.

The next challenge was to identify a sufficiently large concentration of Copaibo trees, to maximize the effort.  With the use of GIS (Geographic Information Systems) as well as ground surveys, Xiomara another CUSO volunteer identified such an area.  The regional government was then petitioned to declare a large area, north of San Ignacio de Velasco as a forest reserve, where the formalized Association of Copaibo Oil Producers of the Chiquitania will be guaranteed access to a sustainable supply of Copaibo oil, free from the encroachment of Slash & Burn practices, by squatters, to extend cattle grazing pastures.  In June of this year, 330,000 ha. were declared as protected, but what that means in practice, remains to be seen.  There is no shortage of well intentioned legislation in Bolivia, but enforcement is non-existent, fines are minimal and a few Bolivianos can eliminate the paper work all together.

During our visit, it was wonderful to witness an excitement amongst the three men with which we spoke, well aware that they were participating in something new and exciting with a great potential to provide an additional source of income.  Again they listed as their top priority, using the money to help with their children’s education.  The reserve was declared a mere six months ago, and tapping the trees began late in the season.  With all the ground work in place, they are well poised to produce a significant volume of oil in their first full year of production.

I can’t help but reflect on the obstacles that Bolivian’s in general have to overcome, some of their own making and others not.  The infrastructure short fall is huge, the inexperience in transparent governance at all levels runs deep, and a mind set that recognizes the importance of a civil society is beyond the consciousness of many, if not most, Bolivian’s.  On the other side of the ledger is the desire for advanced education and the potential to get it right the first time, by drawing on the lessons learned by their neighbours and the world at large.

After a fascinating day, spent with a group of men optimistic about the future for themselves and their families, we continued along the Jesuit Mission Route to San Ignacio.  The contrast is so great, between the small villages and the larger towns, that it challenges me to describe them.  One travels along, what we would struggle to call a road, and as if rising from the dust appear towns with a bustling main square, streets lined with shops and motorcycles, heading in every direction.  The best I can do is to compare them to a movie set, in the middle of a dessert.

Next stop is Santiago de Chiquitos, where we visit the next chain in the production line.

One last comment before I close up here.  November 11th  is a significant day for me on two accounts.  First, because it is my oldest daughter’s birthday, (imposible to forget) and secondly because it marks Remembrance Day in Canada.  I honour the sacrifices that have been made by thousands of young men and woman on our behalf, by exercising my right to vote at every election and shudder with sadness when I dare imagine putting myself in the place of the families that have endured the loss of a loved one in defending our values and principles.

Lest we forget.

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Almonds & Cusi

Did I mention how rough the roads are?  I know it’s all relative, because the people living in the Chiquitania, don’t think twice about it.  Only when it rains and the wet, red clay becomes the closest they’re likely to see to a skating rink, do they take notice of the road conditions.  Dodging pot-holes at 40km/hr. for a few hours isn’t exactly my idea of fun, but the scenery and bird watching, makes up for the churned innards.

Last Wednesday, we drove east out of Concepcion and headed north for Palmarito de la Frontera, a small village a few hundred kilometers into the forest, where CUSO is involved in developing alternative forestry practices, through a Canadian, international initiative referred to as the Model Forest, which attempts to set international standards for management practices that focus on bio-diversity, water quality and climate change.  Many of you know that I, with the help of family and friends, have planted thousands of trees on a 50ha. property, north of Toronto, for over thirty years, so this subject is very dear to me.

Photographs and written descriptions don’t always provide an accurate picture of a place, and that was certainly the case for what I saw during our bumpy drive to Palmarito.  Hollywood and Disney typically portray a romantic image of “exotic” locations and you may have noticed that I’ve described the landscape we traveled through as forest, not jungle.  Were it not for the wide variety of palm trees, which in our northern climate would be replaced by conifers, the landscape looks much like the rural forests of eastern North America.  Much of what we saw was low scrub, some regeneration and older forests as well.  Nothing in this part of Bolivia is what we might call Old Growth, since the soils are thin, with relatively little rain, and natural forest fires, periodically reset the cycle back to zero.

The fruits and oils provided by these forests, have long been known to the local people, however, in many cases the younger generations regard them as something their grandparents pass the time with, or have lost all connection to.  This is where Ulysse, the CUSO volunteer stepped in, not only to rediscover traditional uses, but to help educate the local people as to their commercial potential and, thereby, provide additional income sources.

In Palmarito, we met a small group of women that have formed a cooperative to harvest two locally found fruits: the Chiquitanian Almond, an indigenous nut similar to but in no way related to the Middle Eastern and European almond, and the Cusi.  Harvesting either of these, has depended, until recently on gathering the naturally growing fruits as they fall to the forest floor.  However in the case of the almond, although occasionally consumed locally, it was not regarded as having a commercial value.  That is to say that it did not become part of the typical fare at the village market or road side stands.

Without getting into too much detail, and roughly speaking, Bolivia is divided into two major ethnic groups.  The folk from the Andes, referred to as Coyas and those from the Amazonia, referred to as Cambas.  This is not my description, but rather openly their own.  The Coyas, perhaps because they come from a harsher climate and environment, are very focused on business, earning without spending, living miserably if necessary.  It is said that a Coya will show up in La Chiquitania with 10 Bolivianos in their pocket, and five years later will have purchased land, so that they can produce more to sell, to purchase more land…  Where as Cambas, perhaps because they live in a very, very warm climate where food is abundant and grows easily, are much more focused on having a good time.

A great challenge for Ulysse has been to convince the Chiquitano to seize the commercial opportunities that exist.  Now one may react by thinking “so what’s wrong with being satisfied?” and it’s a fare question.  However, as the world changes around them, their children, like it or not, are exposed to the outside world.  The parents see the need for their children to receive a basic and higher education, and everyone we spoke with, who was participating in one of the projects we would visit, listed as their top motivation, sending their children to school.  Although education is subsidized, sending a child to University in Santa Cruz, may cost as much as 450 Bolivianos per month.  That may not sound like much when converted to $CDN, however, when the only income they have is generated from the selling of home baked goods or excess produce from their gardens, along the road to passersby, every centavo, is hard come by.

The almond has long been cracked open with a machete and the nut eaten as is.  The challenge for CUSO via the FCBC, was to demonstrate that by harvesting the nuts in large quantities and sending them off to be processed (more on this later, since the entire chain is designed to remain within local hands) their was great potential to exploit the forest without the need to slash and burn it down, for grazing livestock and, thereby, provide for the education of their children.  The soils in this region aren’t very good for large scale farming, however, as the almond is indigenous to the area, areas previously devoid of trees are being replanted with the nut.

The second fruit being harvested in this area of the Chiquitania is from the Cusi, a type of Palm tree which produces large bunches of hardball sized, nuts that when cracked open release a fragrant oil which has long been used, in the region, as a natural body oil.  It is currently being sold as straight oil, however, once there are sufficient quantities, the plan is to market it as an additive for hair-care products.

The work being done by the volunteers here, is truly inspiring.  Be it the forester sharing best practices for forest management, the food processing engineer that designed and manufactured hand-operated tools, fashioned from old car parts, to efficiently crack open rock-hard shells or the Marketing Consultant, helping to identify and develop outlets to sell their 100% Free Trade, Organic products.

I haven’t harped on this ‘till now, however, as I spent time with the people of the Chiquitania, I couldn’t help but see how little it takes to make such a huge difference.  The potential is enormous to change lives in a profound way that respects their integrity and builds their autonomy.  As you follow me over the next few days, I hope that you will consider making a donation, however small, to CUSO via the button to the right of the screen.

Next on the agenda, tapping into good old fashioned Canadian ingenuity.

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Into La Chiquitania

After a week of being virtually incommunicado, I have a backlog of thoughts and observations to share, so I’m going to do my best to pass it along without overwhelming you, while keeping everything, more or less, in chronological order.

Have you ever had the sensation that something you’ve been preparing for, for a long time, say months, is always just around the corner, and then around the next corner, and…  Well, last Tuesday, we finally sat down with our key contacts in Santa Cruz, to put together all the pieces of the puzzle: bus and train time-tables, schedules of people in the field, budgets for transportation, food and lodging, when we came to the conclusion that it was going to be near impossible to accomplish what we wanted, based on the original plan.

The only way we could be where we needed, when we needed, was to rent a vehicle.  Yikes!  After a painless conversation with our CUSO contact in La Paz, it was decided to shuffle some money around and hire a car with a driver.  We met with Luver Tuesday morning, discussed our needs and schedule, a price was negotiated, a contract was drawn up and we agreed to leave that same afternoon.  Luver has a small company, that drives, tourists into the Chiquitania and assured us that we would have no problems with the roads vis a vis their vehicle.  I imagined a 4 X 4 with the spare tire on the roof rack and ham radio wip, swaying back and forth next to the extra gas can secured to the rear bumper.  Oh and decals, decals with a distant mountain and a truck loaded with camping gear.  Remember those pre-conceptions?

We were expecting Luver to arrive, as agreed upon earlier in the day, around 3:00pm, but instead Alberto, Luver’s nephew, showed up around 4:00pm in a well used mini-van chock full of stuff, and by that I mean last year’s candy wrappers, empty bottles of water, spare car parts etc. so we would first have to drop by Alberto’s house to make room for all our gear and the long road ahead.  Alberto, who is a Civil Engineer by day, works for a municipality north of Santa Cruz, and wants to buy a house, so his uncle had offered him this opportunity to make some extra bucks, and his boss was generous enough to allow him a few days off.  This opportunity allowed him to earn about a month’s salary in one weak.

After dropping by the Fundacion Para La Conservacion del Bosque Chiquitano (FCBC) to pickup Ulysse, a Forester and Volunteer from Quebec, and who would be our guide on the first leg of the trip, we stopped by Alberto’s place do repack the vehicle.  While we waited, we met his children and his wife offered us some home made caramelized custard, or simply Flan de Huevo as we say in Spanish, and we were off.

The region we were heading into is dotted with seven small communities referred to as the Jesuit Missions, and as rough as the roads are, there is great interest in improving the infrastructure to market the Jesuit Mission Route as a tourist destination.  However, the region is known for more than it’s beautifully restored mission churches.  The Circuit of approximately 900 km. runs through forests rich in natural oils and fruits and we were to have the great privilege of visiting projects supported by CUSO which are helping to preserve those forests, by teaching the local people to harvest rather than cut down their riches.

In the next few days we would discover the Chiquitanian Almond, Cussi Oil, Copaibo Oil and various other natural fruits and ingredients that are making their way from popular usage to commercial shelves, all in an effort to provide a sustainable source of income without destroying the natural environment.

In the short term, our first destination was the mission at Nuestra Señora De La Concepcion, or Concepcion for short.  Now, imagine the roughest bush road you’ve ever travelled, I understand that the road through Québec to Labrador is no picnic, throw in corrugated hard packed mud, clouds of red dust, and you’re half way there.  We left Santa Cruz on a paved road that deteriorated into a crackled surface and in some stretches, we were told that the pavement was missing because it was easier to rip up the asphalt than repair the pot-holes.  The raw materials to manufacture good quality asphalt is not available locally and extremely expensive to import.  So, even though the initiative may exist to build the road infrastructure, it is expensive to maintain.  This, as you might imagine is a huge road block, no pun intended, to marketing the Jesuit Mission Route.  It took us over five hours to travel approximately 250 km.

Tomorrow we kick up more red dust, discover more varieties of palm trees and harvest the natural bounty the forests have to offer.

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A Bolivian Primer

Wow, just under an hour flight, east from La Paz and we’re in another world.  Stepped out of the airport and walked smack into a wall of humidity and temperatures around 38’ C.  We arrived yesterday afternoon in Santa Cruz and this seems as good a time to share some basic geographical and political details concerning Bolivia as any.

I mentioned earlier that Bolivia is landlocked and have made a point of describing that I would be, in both the High Andes and the head waters of the Amazonian Basin.  It is an amazing contrast between the jagged snow-capped Andes in the west and the endless flat expanses of the eastern bread basket.  Bolivia covers 1,098,580 sq/km and just to give you a point of reference, the province of Ontario, in Canada, weights in at 1,076,395 and France covers 674,843 sq/km.

Unlike most countries, and describing the nitty-gritty would get too involved for this space, Bolivia has two Capitals.  La Paz is the Administrative Capital and that is where you’ll find the seat of Government as well as all the Embassies from around the world.  However, the Supreme Court is located in Sucre and is referred to as the Constitutional Capital of the Country.

The country is divided into three distinct regions: Los Andes, Los Sub-Andes and Los Llanos (the Flats) which divide up in a west to east arrangement.  Rather than provinces or states, they refer to the internal political divisions as Departments.

Like many developing countries, there is a marked dichotomy between urban and rural life and in the case of Bolivia, furthermore, between the Andes, where the harsh living conditions present unique economic challenges, and the tropical Amazonian region that produces every crop imaginable.

Bolivia is statistically the poorest nation in South America, with over 60% of the population falling below the poverty line.  Like Canada, Bolivia has long been an exporter of natural resources from it’s mines and from forest products.  In many ways Bolivia is similar to Canada in it’s struggle to convert it’s natural resources into finished products for export, thereby, adding value to the economy and providing employment opportunities for it’s citizens.  Most recently, Bolivia’s Natural Gas reserves have added another valuable commodity to it’s bag of tricks.  However, along with the benefits have come political unrest with regard to an equitable distribution of that new found wealth.

Protecting the natural environment is also a huge concern in Bolivia, especially when one takes into account that a significant percentage of the population continues to live a traditional life, in the jungle, which depends on the bounty produced by the land.  Bolivia boasts the largest percentage of indigenous people in it’s population, in the Americas.  Bolivianos actively participate in the political process and exercise their democratic rights to be listened too and respected.  Because of their activism, it is my assertion that Bolivianos are building a unique form of Democracy, that although in the short term produces instability that may be damaging the national economy, will in the future serve as an example to many other democracies, such as Canada, where striking a balance between native land claims, issues surrounding land use and exploitation of natural resources, and protecting the natural environment represent a significant a concern for it’s citizenry.

For over nine weeks, this fall, over 1000 Bolivians took to the road and marched over 600 km. from their homes in the Amazonian basin all the way to La Paz to protest the construction of a road that would cut through valuable jungle and displace indigenous populations that continue to depend on a traditional life style of hunting, fishing and gathering.  Furthermore, the road would have cut through the Territorio Indígena y Parque Nacional Isiboro Sécure (TIPNIS), a National Park.  In the end, President Evo Moralis, cancelled the road construction project along it’s original route, however, their continues to be uncertainty and concern with regard to a new route.

The Marchistas arrived in La Paz just days before our arrival, however, on several occasions we had the unique opportunity to speak with some of the organizers and gained access to the camp they set up in the square in front of the Parliament, while negotiations took place between all of the effected groups.  This was a historic event in Bolivia’s democratic life and we were privileged to be witness to it.

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Food Wonderful Food

Variety isn’t the spice of life, it is life.  When it comes to traveling, whether it’s in my own backyard or half way around the world, I look forward to discovering new… everything.  It’s in my nature to be curious.  Gee, I wonder if there’s any connection to being a photographer?  Anyway, I’m pretty easy when it comes to food and sleeping arrangements, driving down an unfamiliar road or starting a conversation with a stranger, you get the picture.

However, I am also aware that as open minded as I like to think I am, I bring along my own preconceptions.  Whether it’s from the Coffee-Table books full of wonderful photographs, Documentaries we’ve watched on TV or Travel Guides we’ve leafed through, we arrive at our destinations, often expecting one thing and perhaps finding another.

I like to believe that I’m going to arrive in a place distinctly different from where I just left, otherwise why bother.  I think it makes for a far more adventurous experience when one is wiling to try the indigenous cuisine in the establishments popular with the local people, hangout in the public squares and visit the local markets.  Heck, even try to use the lingo when ever possible.  Sure, there may be challenges with the language and the way people organize themselves, but it’s well worth abandoning most if not all of the hang-ups about the clothing, the music and certainly the food.

Food is a big one for me.  I know that Toronto has a great selection of cuisine from around the world, but when I travel I hope to leave that all behind and discover the true flavour of the place I’m visiting.  But alas, globalization makes that increasingly difficult.  Fortunately, although I haven’t walked every street in La Paz, this is a large city with approximately a million people, I’ve only seen one Burger King and I’ve been told that there aren’t any McDonalds.  Although they do have some of their own chains, they appear to be very small and family owned.  Now that all sounds promising, until you realize that they’re all selling burgers and fries, and fried chicken.  I know, I know, that’s where my own baggage starts to get in the way.  Just as we’ve adopted a variety of cultures, so have the Bolivians and they’re very proud of that, as they should be.

Anyway, I made this observation to our CUSO contact and she told me that that’s because I’d been walking up and down the same strip, where all the university students frequent.  She suggested I head out of our hotel, in the opposite direction, and I’d find a much better selection.  Absolutely true.  No question that there is a strong influence from Argentina in terms of the excellent beef and from Peru for the seafood.  Bolivia lost it’s access to the sea after the War of The Pacific and is now only one of two land locked countries in South America, along with Paraguay.

Remember how I descried that one could have a three course meal for around $10.00 including the beer, tax in?  Well I stopped into a little restaurant where I ordered a delicious trout dish, with soup as the appetizer and a flan custard for dessert for which I would have easily paid $40.00, before taxes, in Toronto.  The wonderful twist was that it was fresh trout from Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake in the world.

Gratefully, Bolivians didn’t stop at burgers and fries and they’re very proud of their skills in mastering other cuisines.  Case in point, there’s a really good Chinese restaurant, for example, right next to the hotel, where last night I had a bowl of Egg-Drop soup and a couple of Spring Rolls, as good as I’ve had in Toronto.  I was having dinner by myself and next to me were two older couples, (anyone apparently older than me is always older) from Germany.  A quick aside, I stopped into a book store to peruse the shelves, and discovered there has long been an interest in South America by Germans, that extends beyond the post Second World War.

Anyway, although I couldn’t understand any more than a few loose words of their conversation, I thoroughly enjoyed watching them, imaging their stories and how different their experience of Bolivia will be, from mine, if for no other reason than the language barrier.  I couldn’t help but smile when the waiter brought them their dishes and amongst the rice, vegetable and noodle dishes, were two big plates of french-fries.  As I was saying about pre-conceptions.  One last note worthy observation about the experience, I didn’t see anyone using chopsticks.  Sure, neither was I but it’s kinda’ difficult to eat soup with chopsticks.  I asked the waiter about that, and he said it wasn’t uncommon for patrons to ask for them.

Otherwise, there’s a great variety of food in La Paz, and the markets have pretty well anything you want.  Imagine a papaya as large as a cantaloupe without that huge pit.  One doesn’t so much find cooked-food on the streets, other than empanadas, but every corner has someone selling fresh fruit along with the cell phone chips, magazines and pop.  That’s soda for any American readers.  With regard to buying fresh fruit on the street, Anouk and I have been warned not to eat any street food, including the fruit, because of the uncertainty as to how or if it’s been washed.  We’re only here for five weeks and loosing any time to introducing our bodies to the local microbes would seriously cut into our itinerary.  On the other hand, I’ve been washing my teeth with tap water, without a problem and we’ve been told that La Paz is the only urban centre in Bolivia with tap water meeting International Standards.

Breakfasts at the hotel consist of fresh Mangos, Pineapples, Bananas, as well as freshly squeezed juices, along with the typical fair of crusty breads with all the fixings, cold cereals and pastries.  This is certain to change in the next few days.

After two days of repose to acclimatize to the altitude and two days of In Country training to reinforce local issues surrounding health, safety and an excellent overview of the political structure and situation, we were finally off to visit our first CUSO project yesterday.  However, we’re off to Santa Cruz tomorrow, the largest city in the country, and after a few days there, head out for almost , two weeks to visit small rural communities, some may not have electricity and others certainly without internet.  We will be flying to Santa Cruz which is just shy of 1000 km way down the slope (great just as we were finally reaching our 2.5 hour marathon) and from there we’re into trains, busses and mule carts.  A real live Planes, Trains, and Automobiles adventure.  Some communities as close to Santa Cruz as a 100km will take us upwards of seven hours along dirt roads, if the rain holds.

I know that you’ve probably been waiting to see those photos the most, so I’ll try when ever possible to post something, even if it means keeping the writing to very basic descriptions and context, in lieu of uploading the images.  It’ll be tough, but I’ll do my best for all you loyal fans.

Bien o mal, tengo los dedos cruzados de que los de habla Español que estéis leyendo esto, podáis entender mucho si no casi todo.  De todos modos, quiero añadir que aparte de la oportunidad de poder viajar, sea donde sea, unos de los lujos mas satisfactorios de este viaje es el poder estar hablando en castellano a diario.  El tener que escuchar con cuidado los accentos de los otros participantes en varios otros proyectos, que han llegado de Chile y Méjico.  El tener que hacer conversaciones que van mas haya que lo domestico, el poder hablar de temas mas importantes, que si el precio de lechugas esta muy alto.  Anoche cene en el Sancho Panza, un restaurante cuyo dueño es un Madrileño que se vino en el 2005 y no volvio a España.  Cenamos a base de raciones y estuvieron buenísimas.

Hasta la próxima.

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